“About Trabzon [after midnight]: Nearly silent. We unboard the bus and walk along a main, desolate road (looks like how I’ve grown accustomed to Turkish cities looking: tall apartment buildings laden with business logos and neon lights, storefronts gone dark with mannequins in the shadows sporting current fashion). After some time we wander the side-streets near the town center. It’s zombie-apocalypse quiet. City gives off a good vibe. Center square is pleasant and we see signs of life. A statue of Ataturk wearing a cape, watching over the few late-night strollers. One gets the impression this city could be busy in the day. The Black Sea coast is not far. Saw the port on our way in. I love being somewhere new. I want to look in every corner of the unfamiliar.”